Is there anything as fascinating as preparations for a long trip? There is a buzz of activity on the wharf as supplies are loaded, luggage is carried by the plank, polished brass work and clean decks.

With a proud maritime history dating back 600 years, Porto, Portugals picture book, is the obvious launching pad for any onboard adventure.

My home for the next 11 days, the elegant 80-meter Scenic Azure, is anchored in the historic Civa da Estiva in the city. On the other side, the famous port houses like Sandeman, Graham, Offley, and Taylors, which have existed since the Duke of Wellington, gave Napoleons armies a bloody nose in the Peninsular War.

While Portugals great navigators travel a short distance downstream and into the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean, Scenic Azure will follow the Douro River to the Spanish border and explore the worlds oldest wine region; part of which is now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 

A river cruise is the ideal way to explore the magnificent Douro Valley, a region rich in archaeological sites, baroque churches, monasteries, ancient fortresses and sweeping landscapes, but is also celebrated for its olives, beef cattle, wheat, almonds, kiwi fruit, citrus fruit and grapes.

 

Although the Douro is synonymous with port - vintage, tawny, ruby, white and rosé, its last incarnation - the region also produces magnificent table wines, including young green, rosé and its red food-friendly red wines. Indigenous grapes such as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Barrola Ink.

 

Despite the obvious pre-trip preparations aboard Scenic Azure, our 11-day Unforgettable Douro cruise begins with a full day of sightseeing in Porto - enough time to get past Australias long flight (my mates are Australians, Americans, Canadians and Brits).

 

Its early August and the riverside restaurants are full of French and German tourists eating roasted sardines, cod and chorizo. But climb the hill for 10 minutes and youll discover one of the most beautiful cities on the Iberian Peninsula - a heady mix of twentieth-century medieval, Gothic, art nouveau, and obstinate architecture.

For such a compact city, Porto has an impressive stock of civic buildings, museums, episcopal palaces, municipal gardens, churches and bridges, including the Dom Luis I Bridge, designed by a student of French engineer Gustave Eiffel.

 

Most visitors gravitate naturally toward Santa Catarina Street. The citys main shopping area is lined with patisseries, grocery stores, chic stores and places like the Majestic Café, where JK Rowling apparently wrote the first sketches for what would become the giant Harry Potter.

But my favorite is the equally magical São Bento Train Station, a magnet for all boy wizards. Opened in 1915, the huge stone-clad martial arts train station features a series of murals depicting scenes from Portuguese history alongside pastoral images of the Douro. Similar murals with these distinctive blue and white tiles can be found throughout Porto.

But no visit to this affluent city is complete without venturing across the river to Vila Nova de Gaia, home to the worlds best-known port houses. Most offer wine tasting and guided tours. Today, the old riverfront is lined with cafes, bars, street vendors and other attractions, such as a futuristic aerial gondola.

By the time Scenic Azure moves away from its dock at Estivas Wharf in the late afternoon, Im already comfortably accommodated in my cabin - a diamond deck balcony suite - next to the reception area and Azure Lounge & Bar .

Having just spent two weeks in a cramped sailboat cabin, my balcony suite looks grand. In addition to the comfortable queen-size bed, the cabin has a well-stocked minibar, satellite TV, a work desk and a stylish bathroom. Oh, and Jaimie, my unflappable steward; With just 48 cabins and a staff of 38, personal attention is a hallmark of Scenic Azure, the latest addition to the companys luxurious European fleet.

 

The ships designers included a few smart touches, such as electric windows and shutters, under-bed storage and ample hanging space. The veranda, though compact, is a worthwhile addition and a charming place for a pre-dinner drink while watching the scenery go by; the complimentary minibar, which includes wine, beer, soft drinks and assorted snacks, is replenished daily.

There is similar attention displayed in the ships formal dining room, Crystal Dining. The lunch and dinner menus feature classic European dishes such as filet mignon, risotto and wellington lamb, and a good selection of Portuguese dishes, local cheeses and mouth-watering desserts. Breakfast buffet is equally sumptuous.

Under the command of its young captain Emanuel Oliveira, a former officer of the Portuguese Navy, Scenic Azure begins its journey in a carefree way. Traveling at an average speed of just eight knots, there is plenty of time to drink in the sights and sounds of the Douro Valley. From Porto to Entre-os-Rios, our first destination, we pass 19th century ornate mansions, crumbling stone houses, Gothic churches and modern glass and concrete houses. The riverfront is dotted with sandy beaches - a popular afternoon getaway for families, swimmers and kayakers.

 

On the second day, everyone settled into the unhurried routine of the ship. Each evening cruise director Raquel Miranda offers guests a briefing on the next days shore excursions and updates guests on board activities, including yoga and fitness classes, boating and Portuguese classes.

Of course, there are many distractions for guests who choose to spend the day on board. The ship is equipped with a huge deck with plunge pool, fitness center, gift shop and panoramic deck.

As we move upstream towards Vega de Terron, across the Spanish border, there is plenty of room to explore the interior. Modern air-conditioned buses take you to old towns like Guimarães, Lamego and Salamanca. Other options include a private visit to Mateus Palace, kayaking on the Sabor River or a guided hike through the historic Croft property at Quinta da Roeda. There are also unexpected delights, such as the sleepy village of Ucanha, where we explore its fortified medieval bridge and tower - one of the best preserved in Europe.

 

"Unfortunately, many of these beautiful old houses are empty," says our guide. "Young people are leaving the countryside. There are more jobs and enthusiasm in the city. These villages are now for the elderly only."

For many of my guests, the stunning Douro landscape, with its dramatic vine terraces, dry rugged hills and bustling port cities, will be the most memorable part of this 11-day cruise, but for me it will be the enthusiasm, good humor and genuine warmth from our Portuguese hosts, especially those at Scenic Azure, who will stay with me. As the famous Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa said: "Europeans are not truly European because they are not Portuguese."

RIVER CROSSING BEGINNERS GUIDE

There is no mystery about the growing popularity of river cruises around the planet. What could be more enjoyable than watching picturesque villages and castles drifting from your private balcony? A river cruise offers the opportunity to visit various destinations without having to unpack your bags. Modern river cruise ships are generally much smaller than their ocean counterparts, meaning a more intimate travel experience.

 

Adapting to a daily routine, your ship will feel just like a floating hotel, complete with a first class dining room and cocktail bar. But there are a number of things that first-time river cruisers need to keep in mind. First, river cruising is not necessarily a passive holiday - todays ships offer a range of yoga, fitness and wellness classes; For the more energetic, there are hiking, biking and kayaking expeditions. Second, embrace the glamorous side to cross the river - make sure you pack something special to wear at the captains table.

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