When you check in at a hotel, you will see the official rates posted in the main lobby and somewhere in your room, perhaps at the bottom of the closet. These rates, dictated by the Board of Tourism, are regulated and really are a form of rental control. Includes 13% service charge and 18% value added tax (VAT).

If an infringement occurs as an overload, you may ask to receive the  Official Complaints Book,  in which you can write your allegations. The hotel manager is required to submit comments to the Tourism Board. Board staff examine them to see if punitive actions should be taken.

The government rates hotels in Portugal from five stars to one. The difference between a five star hotel and a four star hotel will not always be apparent to the casual visitor. Often the distinction is based on square images of bathrooms and other technical details. When you go below this level, you enter the realm of the second and third class hotel. Some can be decent and even great places to stay. The third class hotels are simple accommodations in Portugal.

Coastal hotels, especially those in the Algarve, are required to give off-season visitors (Nov-Feb) a 15% discount. To attract more off-season business, many establishments offer this discount from mid-October to March.

Prices and Ratings in This Guide  - Unless otherwise noted, prices in this guide include taxes and services. Breakfast may or may not be included; the individual notes reflect the hotels various breakfast policies. All references in Portugal to "including breakfast" refer to the continental breakfast of juice, coffee or tea, croissants, butter and jam. If you stay in a hotel and order bacon and eggs or other extras, you will probably be charged for them as a la carte items. Parking fees are per day.

Guesthouses

When traveling in the countryside, plan your trips to stop at  government-owned  inns . The Portuguese government has established these inns in historic buildings such as convents, palaces and castles. Often they occupy beautiful physical scenarios. Usually (but not always), the inns are in regions that do not have many suitable hotels - from Sagres de Henrique the Navigator to a feudal castle in the walled city of Óbidos. The rates are not low but, for the quality and services offered, are moderate. A guest cannot stay longer than 5 days because there is usually a waiting list. Special terms are given to honeymooners.

Cottages

Far more exciting - at least for us - than the inns is the chain of restored farmhouses, cottages and stately homes that have opened for the public here. These properties are the most recommended in this guide, and offer great comfort and charm, often in a historic setting.

The best and most extensive network is in the Viana do Castelo region, where you can sometimes embark on the poor but proud Portuguese aristocracy. Many of these mansions and farms are called  farms. The Housing Tourism association  , which operates mainly in the north, was formed to publicize and link these unique accommodations. In recent years, areas such as Beiras and Alentejo have been included. Local tourist offices provide directories that include color photographs and maps with directions. All of these properties are privately run and breakfast is always included. Republic Square, 4990 Ponte de Lima (tel.  25 / 874-28-27;  www.solaresdeportugal.pt).

Other Special Accommodations

Non-government run tourist lodges are known as  inns. Often these offer some of the best accommodation in Portugal; many are decorated in traditional Portuguese or  typical style  and represent top-notch bargains.

The  residence  is a form of pension, no pension. These establishments offer only one room and breakfast. The  pension  is a pension that charges the lowest rates in the country. The "luxury" pension is a misconception; The term simply means that the pension enjoys the highest rating in its category. The accommodations are decidedly not luxurious. A "luxury pension" is usually the equivalent of a second class hotel. Pensions are found for the budget hunter. Many prepare generous portions of good local cuisine. There are two first and second class pensions.

Another addition to the accommodation scene is the  solare. Most are spacious country houses, formerly owned by the Portuguese aristocracy, which are now being restored and opened as inns. Many date back to the Age of Exploration, when sailors brought wealth back from around the world and established luxurious homes that were passed on to their heirs. The inns are all over the country, but most are along the Costa Verde, between Ponte de Lima and Viana do Castelo.

 

Reservations

Reservations are essential for high season summer travel in Portugal when many hotels are filled with Europeans on holiday. Unless it is incurably spontaneous, you will probably get better with some idea of where you will spend every night, even in the low season.

Most hotels require a deposit of at least one day before booking a room. You can usually cancel a room reservation 1 week in advance and get a full refund, but check the hotel policy when booking. It is important that you include a prepaid international reply coupon with your payment, especially if you are writing for a budget hotel. Better yet, call and speak with a staff member or fax.

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